Family spring break in Hilton Head Island

Though John was joking when he talked about ordering up the “perfect weather package,” you could have fooled me – the weather for our time on Hilton Head Island was practically perfect in every way: mid- to high-70s during the day, sunshine and blue skies, a cool sea breeze blowing in off the ocean, and low humidity. Bliss!

The part of our spring break we actually could control – the itinerary – was pretty good, too :) I’d love to tell you about it, and share a few photos, too, if you’d like to see.

We chose to make the drive on Monday morning, meaning that we had the whole weekend before we left to pack, prepare, relax, and look forward with anticipation, a beginning that seemed positively luxurious. Listening to The Wild Robot audiobook (which we did for free through Spotify Premium) made the five-hour drive go by in a snap – it was equally engaging for the 3-, 6-, and 9-year-old riders as well as the grown-up ones. Plenty of audiobooks have not held all three of our kids’ attention, but this one was a winner all around.

With a lunch stop (at Lowcountry Produce, an old favorite!), we arrived on the island around 4pm and drove straight to pick up our rental bikes. (We had planned to bring our own, but a craaaazy situation the week before we left – getting gas from a station that had its diesel and regular unleaded tanks swapped, meaning we filled up with diesel (!!!) – left our car in the shop and us driving a rental van to South Carolina). We had enough time to unpack, explore the house, and make a quick trip to the beach before a storm blew in and rain began to pour.

As usual, John did a fantastic job finding our rental house. It’s always tricky to situate yourself in a place you’ve never been, especially on an island as large as Hilton Head, but we’re happy with where we landed – about a 10-minute bike ride from Coligny Plaza (a central cluster of shops and restaurants) and just 88 steps (as promised in the listing!) from a stretch of wide, pristine, nearly empty beach.

The house itself wasn’t fancy, but it was a family’s dream – as far as we could tell, lovingly stocked by a pair of grandparents. There were sand toys for the beach and pool toys for the heated pool; a beach wagon, towels, and chairs; a stool to reach the bathroom sink; and books, toys, and stuffies in the double-over-double bunk room. The only negative, in my view, was that the pool was not fenced, and so I was on low-key alert at all times, and we had to keep the kids on a tighter leash than usual in terms of being outside without us. You can find the Airbnb listing for “Beach Nest” here or book directly with the owners, Rick and Denise, for a discount here. (No kickback to me – they just had a little card with the info in the house and I thought I’d pass it along!)

The rain tapered off as we pulled up to Fat Baby’s Pizza. It’s a casual, family-friendly spot, and we were seated right away when we walked in at 6:30. They serve enormous slices of thin crust (though not New York-style) pizza. The kids gobbled up the pizza and were entranced by the screens at each table that displayed the colored placemats of past pint-size diners. They studiously bent over their own coloring sheets, scanning them just before we left – and were delighted when they showed up on the screen, too!

We stopped at Publix on the way home for some drinks and a few beach snacks, then tucked everyone into bed.

The next morning, after a quick breakfast at home, we loaded up the wagon and headed straight over the dunes to the beach. While the water was a bit too cold for full-on swimming, the kids had a grand time skipping through the waves, building sandcastles, and throwing the frisbee. We fully availed ourselves of the house’s beach supplies, adding only our trusty Shibumi, the pride of North Carolina.

We walked back to the house after a few hours, showered off, and then rode our bikes the short trip to The Sandbar, just down the road at Coligny Plaza. (That’s the bike path, below.) Though not directly on the ocean, it had the feel of a beachside shack, and we ordered accordingly: fish tacos for me, a sausage, peppers, and onions sub for John, and various fried things for the children.

After lunch, we decided to venture across the road to Lowcountry Celebration Park, a sparkling gem of HHI. And rightly so – it’s a very cool playground with a pirate ship climbing apparatus at its center and water elements and boardwalks (with gators!) all around. The playground was nearly empty when we were there in the early afternoon; John and I happily swung on a bench swing, watching our kids play and listening to the HHI Symphony rehearsing in the amphitheater for a performance that night.

After an hour or so, we biked back to the house via the beach, changed clothes, and switched into the van to drive to Harbourtown, a marina and shopping hub nestled in Sea Pines.

Sea Pines is a giant, beautiful resort community that takes up a quarter or so of Hilton Head. We were thrilled to find a surprise Sea Pines pass waiting for us at our rental, but were prepared to pay the $9 per day entrance fee. (If you go, know that the fee must be paid in cash.)

We gazed around, exclaiming, as we drove through the live oaks, taupe-and-green Lowcountry homes, and alligator-filled lagoons that make up Sea Pines. Then, with a bit of time before our dinner reservation, we did the tourist thing and climbed the Harbourtown Lighthouse. There’s a beautiful view at the top and some fun Coast Guard history as you climb the steps. It’s a quick attraction and we still had time to admire the ships in the marina and play at the playground under the oaks before our 6pm reservation at Quarterdeck.

Though Quarterdeck was one of our fancier dinners, we found it to be quite family-friendly: the tables are situated around a bar, so the noise level was pretty high, and the atmosphere was upscale casual. The kids’ entrees also came with a side option of roasted vegetables, which, being the mean parents we are, we made all three order. (One ate all of them, one ate half, and one ate almost none, which we considered a success.) Back at the house, we cuddled up to watch the first half of The Wild Robot movie.

Wednesday was another beautiful morning, and we started with breakfast at Watusi Cafe. It was a bit hard to tell what we were in for from the internet, but what we found was an upscale setting with a decidedly warm and friendly feel. Our waitress, Bernie, was a huge part of that and it was a delight to chat with her. The food was delicious, too… even though Shep looked like he had rolled in chocolate chips after finishing his loaded pancakes.

From there, we drove out to the west side of the island to meet our captain for an 11am dolphin tour, booked through Dolphin Discoveries.

We had originally planned to rent kayaks and explore the marsh that way, but couldn’t figure out the proper combination of family members and boats to make that work at our kids’ ages. So, we splurged for the more expensive private boat tour, and were very glad we did. We loved our captain, saw tons of dolphins just a few feet from our boat, learned more about the area and its waterways, and skipped the frustration that inevitably would have resulted from two adults trying to paddle three small children in the hot sun with nary a dolphin in sight.

Back on land, we hopped in the car and made a brief visit to the Coastal Discovery Museum. I would not necessarily recommend it if you’re planning your own vacation – we wanted to visit because it was nearby and I had been there for a Southern Weddings photo shoot many years ago and wanted to show a specific arching tree branch to the family, but it’s a tiny operation and not much of an attraction.

But from there, we drove about ten minutes to Fish Haul Beach Park, which I would recommend. It’s a quiet beach with tide pools, muddy flats, sandbars, and rocky outcroppings, perfect for exploring – which we did! We even managed not to lose any shoes in the mud :)

After an hour or so of exploring, we headed back to the house and the kids finally (their words) got to cannonball into the backyard pool. I loaded up a plate with snacks – slices of Croc Bite cheddar cheese, circles of salami, crackers, grapes, baby carrots, and pickled green beans – and we devoured it in between games of Marco Polo. Eventually, John hauled himself out and fired up the grill to cook a few hot dogs, which we ate poolside.

With the sun low in the sky, we showered off, hopped on our bikes, and rode on the beach to Coligny Plaza for ice cream cones at The Frozen Moo.

Thursday we had another quick breakfast at home, then drove back to Sea Pines to hike the Sea Pines Forest Preserve. Where the Coastal Discovery Museum’s trails were a bit underwhelming, the Sea Pines ones were glorious, with boardwalks twisting through green swamps, spindly waterbirds, a wildflower meadow dotted with bright blooms, and alligators lurking in lagoons. We explored for about an hour and it was well worth our time.

Lunch was at Truffles Cafe in Sea Pines, where we had made an emphatically unnecessary reservation – there were maybe two other tables occupied in the restaurant. This was probably our worst meal choice of the week, not because the food was bad – it was not! – but because the atmosphere wasn’t really matched to what we were looking for. It was more of a ladies-who-lunch vibe, and would have been a better pick for a fancier dinner. Just not really what we needed for a quick lunch after hiking!

We headed back to the house, changed into our suits and sunscreen, and trotted out to the beach for two hours or so for more sandcastles, wading, and kicking the ball around. Then it was back to the pool for another two hours of Marco Polo, tag, and cannonball contests. The pool was small, but just big enough for our family of five to happily play, and plenty warm thanks to the heater.

Then it was time for showers (is there anything better than showering before dinner after a day outside at the beach or pool?) and a short drive out to Hudson’s, a Hilton Head institution for over 50 years. 90% of their seafood comes from local waters, including from their own boat and processing facility right next door. They don’t take reservations, but our 45-minute wait for an outdoor table on the docks (our longest of the week) was well worth it. The kids loved watching the terns wheel and dive and the crabs scuttle in the tanks, awaiting their fate.

Our original plan was to mini golf after dinner, but with the wait we ended our meal later than we expected, so we headed home to watch the second half of The Wild Robot and shifted mini golf to the next day, our final night.

We had left the itinerary for Friday, our final day, mostly open. We ended up repeating several favorites from earlier in the week: a bike ride for breakfast at Watusi Cafe and playing at Celebration Park, then time at the beach followed by playing at the pool and charcuterie snacks back at the house.

We had an early dinner reservation at Coast in Sea Pines, and it was the perfect way to end our vacation – I’d highly recommend placing it as a capstone to your trip, if you can swing it. Coast is a beautiful oceanfront restaurant, and we had made an outdoor reservation. There was live music, golden late-afternoon light, and yummy food: just one of those meals when you look around at your beautiful family and beautiful surroundings and soak in how grateful you are. We walked out to the beach after dinner, then mini golfed at Pirate’s Island, as promised.

(A note to the kind readers who gave me HHI recommendations, many of whom mentioned Gregg Russell’s Harbourtown concerts: we had planned to go to his Friday night concert, but a sign was posted earlier in the week to say it was canceled! Next time, I suppose :))

As always, thank you for letting me share! I’m happy to answer any questions you might have about Hilton Head in the comments!